Brushing is the single most under-rated maintenance task. Every week you skip, algae gets a head start. Three weeks in a row? You'll see green in corners and behind the ladder. Here's the right way to brush, matched to your pool surface.
Why brushing matters
Algae doesn't float — it attaches. It forms a biofilm on pool surfaces that shields it from chlorine. Brushing disrupts the biofilm, exposing the algae cells to sanitizer. A sanitizer-only approach (no brushing) is fighting with one hand tied behind your back.
Brush by surface type
| Surface | Brush type | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Plaster / pebble / quartz | Stainless steel or nylon/steel combo | Aggressive enough for rough surface |
| Vinyl liner | Nylon only | Steel will shred the liner |
| Fiberglass | Nylon only | Steel scratches gel coat |
| Painted concrete | Nylon | Steel strips paint |
The brushing technique
- Start at the shallow end, brush toward the deep end / main drain.
- Overlap each stroke by 50%. No skipped zones.
- Brush the waterline hard — calcium and oils collect there.
- Get into corners, behind ladders, under the skimmer throat.
- Brush steps and benches last (they've had debris falling on them the whole time).
Frequency
- Weekly minimum on residential pools.
- 2–3x weekly during algae-prone months (hot + humid).
- After every storm to disrupt contaminant deposits.
- Daily for the first week of a new plaster pool.
Brush heads wear out
A nylon brush lasts ~18 months of weekly use. A steel brush 2–3 years. When bristles start bending under pressure instead of flexing, replace it — you're not actually disrupting anything at that point.